Reflection

            

            It took long enough, but after 5 years I have finally graduated from Western State. It has taken a while to hit me, but I am pretty excited to be done. I am headed back to Maryland to continue working for Earth Treks Climbing Centers as a jack of all trades, slingin’ grips, coaching, guiding, etc. And of course, working on my whistling skills, rehabbing my finger, and training for a season long New River Gorge trip in the fall with my friend Ben Spannuth (and Caleb Justice if I can steal him away from school). After that, who knows? The world is my burrito!

            Five years ago I arrived as a dirty gym rat from the east coast. I still love the gym, but now I am a bit cleaner, I no longer have a tree-sap dreadlock, and I can grow a much better beard. So life is pretty good I guess. Gunnison has been an amazing place to mature as a climber, and I am grateful for the opportunity to climb in and around the valley. There are a few things that I think make Gunnison a unique place to be a climber. The first thing is the amazing diversity of rock and how accessible it is. Hartman Rocks. Simultaneously the worst and best climbing area ever. Lets be real, for the most part Hartmans is lowball choss, even the sport climbs. But damn it if it isn’t 5 minutes away and always sunny. You can literally climb outside 365 days a year. Crazy. And you know what? If you can find your way through the maze of disintegrating granite choss, Hartmans is home to some of my favorite boulder problems ever. And even one of my favorite sport climbs (also Gunnison’s hardest). The sheer size of Hartmans is also an asset. Every time I think Hartmans is tapped out, I hike over a hill and get hit in the face with untouched classic boulders. Another thing that makes Gunnison unique is the potential for exploration and first ascents. Not just at Hartmans, but everywhere. It is a rare occurrence for me to go climbing for a day and NOT do at least one first ascent. Since coming to Western I have been involved in the development of many new climbing areas, and we have just scratched the surface.

        

          Probably my favorite thing about the WSC climbing community is how supportive it has become. If I can speak frankly, and I can, the climbing community here has come a long way in terms of inclusion and support. I once heard George Sibley say, “One does not come to the mountains for love of his fellow man”. It seems many people come to Gunnison to ‘get away’ and even with all the talk about ‘community’ out here, it is easy to feel isolated. At least that is how I felt my first few years here. But I can’t talk about the failures of the Gunnison/WSC climbing community without talking about myself too. In my first semester as unofficial head of the WSC Climbing Team I probably came across as a dick. That’s probably because I was being a bit of a dick. I like to think that I have come a long way since then, and that is what college is for right? Learning! And I have definitely learned a lot. About people, climbing, community, and myself. I loved coming up to the gym this last year and seeing everyone crowded in the cave hanging out, climbing, joking around, and making plans for bigger and better adventures. I am really proud of how the climbing community at Western is evolving and I hope it continues to move in a positive direction.

           

            Here is some unsolicited advice I wish I could go back in time and give myself:

1.) Stay humble.

            Climbing is about having fun and pushing yourself. No one cares how hard you climb, how many pull ups you can do, or if you soloed some shit house climb in the winter. In the grand scheme of things none of us are badass. To keep things in perspective, I just remind myself that there are 10yr olds who could warm up on my projects.

2.) Stay safe.

            There is nothing cool about being dumb or dangerous. Sure you might think trying to onsight that R rated pitch or soloing that climb you have wired will make you badass, but you probably won’t feel that way when you are laying there with broken legs and your friends have to carry you out of the back country. Being able to climb another day is badass. Getting hurt is not.

3.) Take pride in what you do.

            Whether you are doing a first ascent, training in the gym, or writing a paper. Conduct yourself I a way you can be proud of. Try hard. All the time.

4.) Keep exploring!

            There is so much rock. It is all over the place and there is plenty for everyone. When I come back to visit I want to check out all the new areas ya’ll have found!

5.) Share your projects.

            Climbing is more fun with your friends. The first ascent isn’t that important. Plus, you probably have the beta wrong.

6.) Trad is not better than sport is not better than bouldering is not better than trad…etc.

            Mix it up. Expand your skill set. You will be a better climber.

Finally, I will leave you with one of my favorite quotes by the Japanese poet Matsuo Basho.

            “Do not follow in the footsteps of great men, seek what they sought”.

Get out there and PULL DOWN!

-Will Anglin

P.S. If you are ever on the east coast look me up, lets go climb.

STIGMATA

Caleb on Stigmata

You remember how a few months ago Caleb sent his first V10? Well now he has done his first V12 (skipping V11 I mught add)! A few weeks ago Caleb repeated my route Stigmata at the Graveyard Boulders for its second ascent. It was so amazing to watch Caleb work on and send this boulder. He has definitely broken through a mental barrier and is CRUSHING right now. Be ready to hear about some other sick ascents as Caleb sets his sights on other hard, unrepeated boulders in The Valley!

Check out this video of Caleb's send and also some other great problems at the Graveyard Boulders:

http://vimeo.com/39977805

-Will Anglin

Rock Wars V: The Pulley Strikes Back

You know what sucks? Not climbing. 6 weeks ago I tore the A4 pulley in my left ring finger. It was bad. I haven’t climbed in 6 weeks, and I won’t be climbing for the next few months either. This is the third major injury I have had in my climbing career. In my 10 years of climbing, I have only really climbed 8, with 2 years taken off due to injury.

This injury was particularly frustrating for 2 big reasons:

#1 The day before the injury I had stuck the last hard move on the Hartmans Project (5.14b?) from the ground and fell crossing to the finish jug! HEARTBREAKER!!!

#2 It came out of NOWHERE. I had been taking plenty of rest days, and had never experienced any pain or tweaks in my fingers that would have warned me of impending injury. One second I felt like superman and the next second my climbing season was over. Total mind-#*@%!

I will be writing posts about my recovery process in case you are interested.

-Will Anglin

Wise Words From...MACLEOD!

If you didn't laugh when you read the title of this post, go watch "Highlander", then read it again. If you still didn't laugh...I'd suspect you were an android of some sort...

 There can be only one!

Seriously though. These are some of my favorite posts by Dave MacLeod. Dave is a badass. He boulders V14, climbs 5.14d sport, 5.14c X trad, 5.14+ bigwalls, cutting edge mixed climbs, and burly winter alpine ascents. All in one Scottish dude. He knows what he's talking about.

Oh whats that? 

Its just Mr. MacLeod free-soloing a 5.14b sport route in Spain.

READ THESE!


Distracted From The Task At Hand

Learn The Hard Way?

Through The Whole Move

Training The Ability To Try

Technique Learning



Thanks for reading those! Now you can watch this sweet video of Dave climbing/talking.


-Will

Breaking the Barrier

Yesterday I got to watch Caleb send his first V10! In a time when V14’s are getting flashed and superhuman feats on the rock seem to happen everyday, sending V10 is still considered the gateway into really difficult climbing. Caleb has been training like a machine for the past five weeks in preparation for a Spring Break trip to Bishop and it was awesome to see his hard work pay off. The problem he sent was Balance of Power at RLC. It was also the first repeat of the problem. So congratulations Caleb!

Here is a video of the send:

The Lindner Project

Staying warm at Willow in 2009

     A few winters ago Chris Lindner moved out to Gunnison for a few months. My friend Ellis was in town too so the three of us went out to Willow Creek to try some projects I had started working on over the summer. That day Chris flashed the first ascent of Fight Test (a really highball V8), did the first ascent of The World Is Your Burrito (a V9 until it broke recently), and also got the first ascent of The B (a V10 that is still unrepeated). To cap it all off he cleaned up a project on the roadside boulder that we all worked on into the night. No one sent, but Chris thought it was probably in the hard V12 range. Unfortunately Chris had to leave the valley before he got back to the project, so it never got sent.

 

Chris working on the project (2009)

     Despite being February, today was sunny and super warm! Josh, Terry, Kyle, Caleb, and I went out to Willow for some sweet sweet road side ice bouldering. Ice bouldering because the slope of the terrain around the boulder causes all the snowmelt to pool in one spot, the landing zone, which freezes into a 1-2ft thick ice slick. It is a great place to slip and wreck yourself. Which I did. But not before I was able to send the Lindner Project! The ice still hurt though.

     I named the problem “The Hunted” (V12), after Roy found a bighorn sheep skull that had been chomped straight in the face by a mountain lion (you could see the teeth holes in the bone, it was awesome). The problem sit starts and makes a few set up moves before launching into a sequence of really hard moves on really small holds, to a cryptic top-out. Overall the problem is good, but the rock quality in some places is lacking. All of the critical holds are totally solid though and the movement is great. Check it out.

-Will

CCS Comp @ UNC Feb. 18th

Taken from the UNC snowFALL facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/events/260819603986088/

"Come compete in the first Collegiate Climbing Series Comp of the 2012 season for the Rocky Mountain Region! Heat 1: 10:00am-1:30pm Schools from Northern Colorado, Boulder, and the Denver Area Heat 2: 2:00pm-530pm Schools from Southern Colorado, the Western Slope, and Out of State Results and Raffle: 6:00pm. Prizes donated by Crimp Chimps, Blue Sun, Vertical Girl, Access Fund, and REI. Entry Fee: $20 for CCS members, $25 for non-members $5 per person goes to Access Fund To become a CCS member, register at usaclimbing.org To register, email uncclimbing@yahoo.com by February 10th with the following info: Name Sex Date of Birth Category (Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced) School Name CCS Member Numeber (if applicable) Email Address To pay your entry fee by card, call (970)351-2936, or you can bring cash or check on the day of the comp. SPACE IS LIMITED, SO REGISTER NOW!" We will be carpooling up to Greely Saturday morning. Gas will be provided y the WSC Climbing Club. You will have to register for the CCS on your own and pay for your entry fee. It is a top-rope comp on 30ft walls. Bring your harness and such. I know that some other people and I are going to try to stick around Sunday and Monday (Presidents Day) to boulder at Horsetooth Reservoir. If you want to stay and climb, awesome. If you have to get back to Gunny, we'll work that out too. there will be at least 2 cars going to Greely. Let me or Roy know if you have questions. -Will

Finger Strength/Power

The 3 main reasons for failure on a climb or problem are:

1- Lack of Technique

2- Lack of Strength

3- Lack of Endurance

Lets get more specific with "Failure of Strength". What isn't strong enough? It isn't your arms and it isn't your back (Unless you are Chancho). It is your fingers. Don't believe me? Think about that boulder problem or route that you haven't sent yet. If all of those holds were huge handle-bar jugs, would you have sent it already? It doesn't matter if you can do a one arm pull-up and crank out front levers, if you can't hang onto the holds, you can't do the move, and if you can' do the move, you can't do the route/problem. 

Two weeks ago it occurred to me that I have never trained specifically for finger strength/power. So i came up with a pretty brutal training regimen to finally whip myself into shape for my Spring Break trip to The Buttermilks. I have decided to post this workout for a few reasons:

#1. The more I type it up the easier it is for me to remember

#2. It is working so far and I wanted to share it

#3. If I hurt myself it will be an example of 'what not to do'

And now for the disclaimer: I have been training and climbing for 10years. I have tendons of steel (hopefully this training will upgrade me to unobtainium). I would not recommend this to anyone who has been climbing for less than 5 years and isn't sending V8 or higher consistently. I am working on a less stressful training plan for people who do not meet the above criteria and I will be sure to post it once it is done. As I have said before, INJURIES SUCK! Don't be stupid.

Finger Strength/Power
edited: 4/6/12

Week Overview

Monday: Hard

Tuesday: Rest/Yoga

Wednesday: Easy

Thursday: Hard

Friday: Rest/ Yoga

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Climb Outside

WEEKS 1,2 & 5

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Weighted (20lbs) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

WEEK 3

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEK 4

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 2 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEKS 1-5

Wednesday: Easy

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-30-45min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Horizontal Pull-Ups (no weight); 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Russian Stands

-Burpees

Winter Training

                             

It seems like winter has finally decided to show up here in Gunnison, and with it, the indoor training season. This it the time of year I spend a majority of my waking hours pouring over guide books and planning trips in an effort to stay psyched while training to the point of nausea in our aging plywood prison. I used to hate it when the snow would roll in and render even the cold weather haven of Hartman Rocks un-climbable. Over the years however, I have learned to love the forced ‘indoor season’ and the feeling of emerging from winter’s plastic training cocoon and crushing my projects from the past season.

If I could only pass on 3 things I have learned in my 10 years of training I would choose these:

#1 Injuries Suck, REST!

Have you ever been injured? Then you know what I am talking about. Climbing is one of those activities, like eating Nutella and smoking crack, that is so fun it can be hard to stop. This is where all of those nasty over use injuries, like tendonitis and pulley tendon ruptures, start to really harsh your style. Throughout the year, and especially during training, it is imperative to rest adequately. Listen to your body. If you are having trouble taking a day or two off, just camp out on your couch with a huge jar of Nutella, a spoon, and start working your way through all of the X-Files episodes on Netflix. At least that’s what I do.

#2 There is a Difference Between Training and Performance

Climbing performance is variable. Some days you feel like The Hulk, and other days you get pumped just trying to unscrew the lid of you Nutella jar in the previous paragraph. You just have to go with it. Don’t waste your energy getting frustrated. One of the worst things you can do for your body and your psyche is to confuse training time, with performance time. For me it is pretty easy: If I am inside, it is always training time, competitions included. A lot of times, climbing outside is still training time. In reality there are relatively very few times when I go climbing that I actually consider performance time. So what is the difference? When it is training time you shouldn’t be worried much about how hard you are actually climbing. The only thing that matters is how hard you are trying. If you are training properly, your performance should actually decrease at times. Performance time is that trip, or even just a projecting session, you have been planning and preparing for for weeks (or months). Learn to separate your training time from your performance time and you will be less frustrated, more motivated, and you will ultimately become a better climber.

#3 Eat (Good) Food

If you train hard and don’t fuel your body properly, you will get hurt. A quick Google search will have you neck deep in performance nutrition articles. I won’t advocate for any certain one, but I would encourage you to do your own research and get involved in your own nutrition. Learn how to cook. You’ll be healthier and it’s also a great way to impress girls.

Best of the Best

     As I say goodbye to my last fall bouldering season here in the Gunnison Valley I decided to compile a list of the ‘best’ boulder problem for every grade V0-V12 here in The Valley. There are so many good problems it is hard to label just one as the 'best', so I chose problems that are benchmark for the grade, aesthetic, and indicative of the area. Here is what I came up with. This is just my opinion, comments and additions welcome!

THE BEST OF THE BEST

V0 – Cruisin’ for a Bruisin’ (Hartmans, The Other Side)

Great movement on a tall boulder, with good holds and plenty of intermediates for shorter folks.

                                                  

Ziggy on Cruisin' for a Bruisin' during the Gunnison Glory

V1 – Gunnison Crack (Hartmans, White Lightning Area)

The classic highball crack boulder problem. A must do for the Gunnison climber, just don’t blow it at the top!

V2 – Canine Levitation (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)

Have you ever taken a dog across a tyrolean…? Maybe leave the dog at home when you cross the river to get on this classic problem. Awesome edge climbing on amazing rock to a thoughtful topout over a good landing.

Aaron chalking up for Canine Levitation

V3 – Madagascar (Hartmans, The Stash)

Yup, that patina shield looks just like Madagascar. This problem stands out for its rock quality, aesthetics, and uniqueness of movement.

                                     

Madagascar

V4 – Look Ma! (Hartmans, Bambi’s Trail)

Highball. Scary landing. Sharp patina crimping. A little sandbagged. Classic Hartmans.

                                    

Look Ma!

V5 – Center El Skyland (Skyland, High Times)

This is definitely one of my personal favorites and I never leave Skyland without climbing it at least once. It is a direct line on a big boulder with a good landing. A heel hook, a big cross, and subtle body positioning will get this thing done.

                                             

Center El Skyland

V6 – Dirty Business (Skyland, Battleship)

Get yer crimp on with this Skyland classic! Small holds lead to a big finishing move and a fairly tall topout. Get dirty.

V7 – Atomic Tick Fever (Skyland, Hone Stone)

This may be one of the most sought after problems in The Valley. Edge compression straight up an overhanging face on a huge freestanding boulder at the edge of an aspen forest looking down at Crested Butte. What more could you want? A V10 sit start? Yeah, its got that too.

                                   

Getting the ATF sit start done on a perfect fall day.

V8 – Fight Test (Willow Creek, Fight Test Boulder)

Bring your friends…and have them bring their friends, you’re going to want a lot of pads and spotters for this one. To date there have only been two ascents: Chris Lindner’s flash FA, and my repeat directly after with a slightly harder direct finish variation. Topping out at 25+ feet with hard moves all the way to the lip this thing is the full package. How hard are you willing to fight for it?

                                                  

Don't let the lens fool you . . . this thing is TALL

V9 – The Plague (Real Lost Canyon, Damocles Boulders)

This recent addition is a real gem. Tucked away in the mostly chossy boulders of Real Lost Canyon, The Plague stands up as one of the best problems I’ve ever done. You’ll want good friction for this one. If you’re not wearing a jacket it might not be cold enough…

                                                  

Caleb on the 2nd ascent of The Plague

V10 – Supernatural (Skyland, Supernatural Boulder)

Did it get it’s name from the supernatural beauty of the line, the supernatural crimp strength needed to pull it off, or both? I could ramble for pages about how good this thing is, but you really just have to see it for yourself.

                                                   

Roy working out the crux moves on Supernatural

V11 – ??????

If there is a classic problem of this grade in the Gunnison Valley I am currently unaware of it. Though there are certainly some beautiful projects hanging around in that range.

V12 – Stigmata (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)

A project of mine for years, I finally pulled off the FA this fall. Extremely subtle and extremely powerful compression up an overhanging blade of granite. It could be a grade easier, and it could very possibly be a grade harder. It was a huge mental and physical leap for me so it is hard to assign a grade. This is unrepeated to date.           

                                   

Stigmata

Beta and directions to all of these problems can be found on Mountain Project. Bundle up and go climbing!

-Will Anglin

2012 CCS Schedule

Here is the current CCS comp schedule for the Spring 2012 semester. Lets carpool and try to get as many people as we can to each of these competitions. Let me know if you have any questions: william.anglin@western.edu

February 18th - UNC

March 3rd - CU @ The Spot !!!CANCELLED!!!

March 10th - WSC

March 31- San Juan

April 7th - UCCS @ Sport Climbing Center

RLC Update

We have been racing to finish up all the lines we found at RLC before winter hits us full bore! First of all I am pretty excited about the new problem, Balance of Power. This problem joins Seventh Day (V8) and The Plague (V9) as one of the best climbs I have done in RLC, and anywhere for that matter. I am also excited because it might be RLC’s first V10! Balance of Power climbs a tall arête with powerful compression moves to a committing and potentially dangerous topout. I cleaned and sent the line in a day, so originally graded it V8+, but a recent trip to Joe’s Valley, and efforts by other strong climbers, have put the difficulty more into perspective. So she gets the upgrade.

Caleb working Balance of Power (V10?)

I FA’d another really interesting line the other day that has some very cool beta. Located on the Cake Boulder, Somber Thoughts makes some cool gymnastic moves on a steep boulder, culminating in a wild-blind-cobra-strike-toe-hook move around a corner to top out! I have to give props to Roy who put the idea of a toe-hook in my head. This is definitely a very unique line and a good addition to RLC.

FA of Somber Thoughts (V8?)

p.s. You can see the chalked 'holds' straight up for the Burning Planets Project

There is a direct finish to Somber Thoughts...the Burning Planets Project. This project could definitely be in the V11-12 range, but it is a little contrived. There are only a few more hard projects left at RLC, but there are tons of great moderates out there ripe for pickin’ for whoever has the motivation and a brush. Get out there and SEND!

-Will Anglin

RLC Resurgence

People have been climbing at Real Lost Canyon (RLC) for decades. There is however a lack of accessible, reliable information about the existing routes and boulder problems. A number of weeks ago Aaron and I headed out to RLC on a rest day to try and track down some boulders that might be accessible through the winter months. At first RLC looks like it could be the most concentrated bouldering area in the valley, surpassing even the Skyland Boulders at the base of Mt. Crested Butte. Unfortunately the rock quality leaves something to be desired. The sandstone here is very brittle. I would describe it like an egg. A very hard outer patina shell that, when broken, reveals the soft, white, sandy center. Some of the rock is mind-blowing choss, but tucked away in these boulders are some of the best problems I have ever climbed! So there is the disclaimer…all nay saying about the rock quality aside, RLC has some of the best moderately hard (V8-9) boulder problems in the valley. The rock seems to be very conducive to these grades. Mainly because all the big holds break, and what you are left with are beautiful steep lines with small holds, slopers, thoughtful movement, and great texture. I am very excited about this “rediscovery” of RLC. To put it into perspective…I have spent 5 years actively developing bouldering at Hartmans, and have only just started finding good problems there in the V8-V10+ range. After only two days at RLC I was able to put up two V8’s and a V9, all three are CLASSIC, and there are multiple projects that could be harder and just as quality. Over the past few weeks a crew of dedicated Gunni climbers have been bundling up, braving the cold, and putting in the hard work of finding and cleaning new problems for what is sure to become a great resource for bouldering in the Gunnison Valley.

I want to mention: Aaron, Caleb, Alek, Kyle, Roy, Spenser, and Pat. All of these guys have been instrumental in helping to get this area off to a good start.

Anyone interested in getting in on the action, feel free to shoot me an email: wlanglin@comcast.net

For some absolutely amazing photos of RLC check out Spenser Li’s Flickr account:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20673597@N04/

Climb Safe,

Will Anglin

Here is a short film of some of the most classic lines at RLC:

Get more beta HERE

Hey Folks!

Looking for some super sweet bouldering pics?

Well then its a good thing we found Lost Canyon!

Check out:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20673597@N04/sets/72157628136559352/

to see more photos

Crush O Ween

Hey Folks,

Did you miss out on the Crush O Ween Halloween Bouldering Comp?

Well look no further. Here are some photos from the competition to get re-stoked for the last few weeks of the rock season.

Hartmans Update

Some new problems have gone up recently at Hartmans! Caleb Justice sent his project Pride Rock (V7-) at The Far Side, Alek Pouliopolis nabbed the 2^nd ascent of this gem shortly after. This might be the best problem of the grade in all of Hartmans. Really cool movement on an overhanging refrigerator block of really high quality stone. Get out there and climb it! Also new at Hartmans is The Contortionist (V8+) at The Stash. I got the FA of this short, but powerful problem today after a great session of repeating a lot of classics in the area. The Stash has a high concentration of GREAT problems! Everyone should get out there. The problems Madagascar (V3), Straight Razor (V3), Birdman (V4+ HB), Africa VIP (V4), and The Contortionist (V8+) are some of the best problems anywhere around Gunnison. I was also able to get the 2^nd ascent of Caleb’s core-tension testpiece Attack of The Bongos (V9-). There has been some speculation that the absence of a thumbcatch that was present at the first ascent has upped the grade. Having not tried the problem before the break, I can’t say whether it has gotten harder, but I feel confident that the grade now is solid in the easy V9 range. Attack of The Bongos is definitely one of Hartmans best and hardest problems. Big props to Caleb for unlocking the beta and putting up this amazing problem! There is so much rock at Hartmans! If anyone is interested in doing some development let me know, I can point you towards some great boulders. Get out and explore too! If you think you’ve put up some new boulders, log into www.mountainproject.com and update the Hartmans bouldering page.

- Will Anglin

Here are some sweet Hartmans pics to get you excited…

Aaron sticking the crux on Jenny V6-

Photo: W. Anglin

Will on the FA of The Contortionist (V8+)

Photo: C. Justice

Elyssa on Magic Shoes (V2+)

Photo: A. Newell

Caleb on Pride Rock (V7-)

Photo: W. Anglin

Fall Break at Joe's Valley

Joe’s Valley, just outside of Orangeville Utah, is a bouldering paradise. Only 5.5 hours from the WSC campus, the super featured sandstone blocks at Joe’s offer some of the most fun and aesthetic boulder problems in the country. The climbing is also incredibly diverse, encompassing every climbing style from splitter cracks to steep gymnastic problems, and classic lines from V0-V14. Still not sold? Guess what, the camping is FREE. While Joe’s offers a lot of freedom it is important (as with every climbing area) to be good stewards. Try to minimize your impact, camp only in designated campgrounds, and leave the area cleaner than you found it.

On Wednesday Oct. 12^th, Caleb Justice, Aaron Newell, and I rolled into the Man-Sized Area campground and promptly headed to bed in anticipation for the next day’s sandstone sweetness. After a quick breakfast of oatmeal on Thursday morning we headed directly to the Right Sign Area to get on the classic Wills Of Fire (V6) and check out my project for the trip Beyond Life (V10).

Caleb working Beyond Life, March 2011

Photo: M. Hill

I first tried Beyond Life last year at the end of my last day of a nine-day trip. Six of my fingers were already down to blood, but it looked so amazing, I had to try it. I didn’t even come close to doing it, but I knew I’d be back for it. The three of us sent Wills Of Fire, and then shifted focus to some of the harder problems on the boulder. Surprisingly, I was able to send Beyond Life after a couple tries, I think it is one of the best boulder problems I have ever done. Caleb was almost able to send, even with a fully taped index finger (the result of an unfortunate work-related razorblade accident). Aaron put in some solid tries on They Call Him Jordan (V8) before we decided the heat of the day was affecting the friction too much.

Aaron getting a boost from Will while working They Call Him Jordan

Photo: C. Justice

What do you do when it is too hot to climb? Hang out at the Food Ranch of course. The Food Ranch is the local gas station/grocery store in Orangeville. It is a great place to buy food (the doughnuts, aka: Send Rings, are amazing!), fuel up the car, and fill up water. There are also public bathrooms and a sweet lounge upstairs.

After watching some climbing movies up in the lounge and refueling our bellies, we headed back to the blocks for an evening session. After warming up on the best V5 in the world, Kill By Numbers (Aaron flashed it!), we rolled over to Worst Case Scenario (V9).

Caleb on Worst Case Scenario

Photo: W. Anglin

Despite being slightly contrived (in my opinion), this problem is a blast and not to be missed if you climb the grade. I was able to send on the third go, Caleb and Aaron were painfully close to sending and vowed to come back.

The next day we hiked up to the amazing Skeleton Key (V11), and Caleb and I spent most of the morning getting heartbreakingly close to the send, but ultimately left empty handed. The rest of the day was spent scoping out other problems and checking out areas we hadn’t been before.

Saturday we went to check out a problem called Black Dahlia (V10), but we arrived too late and the sun was already cooking the black rock.

Aaron on Black Dahlia

Photo: W. Anglin

Still, we were able to try it a few times and eventually decided that we would have to come back in November after it cooled down more. After a lunch break and a quick stop at the Food Ranch, we headed to Moment of Truth (V10).

Will on Moment of Truth

Photo: A. Newell

Moment of Truth sits back in a canyon of huge water polished blocks all by itself. On one side of the boulder a small stream trickles down and under a house sized boulder that provides a nice sloped landing. The problem and its surroundings are so perfect. I was almost able to send, but fell twice off the top out mantle, another project for next time. That evening we found ourselves back at Worst Case Scenario, where Aaron was nearly able to send, falling off the last hard move over and over. Not bad for a guy who has been sick for over a week.

Aaron on Worst Case Scenario

Photo: W. Anglin

Saturday night we were all so tired we knew we wouldn’t be able to climb much the next day, so we packed up and headed back to Gunny.

We are headed back to Joe’s Valley over Thanksgiving break, you should come too!

-Will Anglin

P.S. Here is a quick video of some sends on the trip before the camera died.

The Graveyard Boulders

To get to the Graveyard Boulders from Gunni you drive up to Almont and take a right into Taylor Canyon. Drive past first and second buttress to mile marker 10 (or just look across the river for the Coffin Cracks), park at the lot on the right before the cabin. Now comes the fun part… to get to the boulders you walk about 30-40m upriver, strip down to your undies, hike the crashpads as high up on you back as they can go and walk across the river. “Walk” is slightly misleading, more like “struggle to stay standing in waist deep, fast moving water”.

Will and Roy crossing the Taylor (Photo: A. Newell)

After surviving the river, head down stream about 200m and the first boulder you’ll probably notice is the looming Fuzzy Bottom Boulder right off of the trail. The 20ft. super crimpy line up the center of the boulder is the classic face climbing test-piece, Flatline (V8), established by local Taylor Canyon resident Duffy Hutchins. One of the best moderates ever is on the same boulder just around to the right; Canine Levitation (V2) sit starts on a nice angled rail and makes some awesome moves to an easy top out. Next you can test your mettle against the arête climb to the left of Flatline, called, Like a Boss(V2). This climb boasts a much spicier topout than Canine Levitation. If you cruise “Like a Boss” then you can truly test your mental game on the newly established Murderball (V5) on the crimpy face just leftof Canine Levitation, but make sure you’ve got a lot of pads because a fall off the crux could really ruin your season.

Caleb on the 2nd ascent of Murderball V5 (Photo: W. Anglin)

If you crossed the river for more moderate problems then you can head up the hill and get some burns in on the Umbrella Boulder with the lowballs Pimp Smack (V4-5) and Mary Poppins (V4). You could also sneak through a hole to the right and try the powerful and technical, Flightless Bird (V5).

Aaron sending Flightless Bird (Photo: W. Anglin)

Think you’re good at crimps…then wander back upriver to check out Will Anglin’s recently established, Stigmata (V12?).

Even if you’re not going to try the problem, just feeling the holds will be a humbling experience. Overall, The Graveyard Boulders are home to some of the best boulder problems in the valley, and there is still a ton of development to be done. For more information, check out: www.mountainproject.com.

- Aaron Newell