Breaking the Barrier

Yesterday I got to watch Caleb send his first V10! In a time when V14’s are getting flashed and superhuman feats on the rock seem to happen everyday, sending V10 is still considered the gateway into really difficult climbing. Caleb has been training like a machine for the past five weeks in preparation for a Spring Break trip to Bishop and it was awesome to see his hard work pay off. The problem he sent was Balance of Power at RLC. It was also the first repeat of the problem. So congratulations Caleb!

Here is a video of the send:

The Lindner Project

Staying warm at Willow in 2009

     A few winters ago Chris Lindner moved out to Gunnison for a few months. My friend Ellis was in town too so the three of us went out to Willow Creek to try some projects I had started working on over the summer. That day Chris flashed the first ascent of Fight Test (a really highball V8), did the first ascent of The World Is Your Burrito (a V9 until it broke recently), and also got the first ascent of The B (a V10 that is still unrepeated). To cap it all off he cleaned up a project on the roadside boulder that we all worked on into the night. No one sent, but Chris thought it was probably in the hard V12 range. Unfortunately Chris had to leave the valley before he got back to the project, so it never got sent.

 

Chris working on the project (2009)

     Despite being February, today was sunny and super warm! Josh, Terry, Kyle, Caleb, and I went out to Willow for some sweet sweet road side ice bouldering. Ice bouldering because the slope of the terrain around the boulder causes all the snowmelt to pool in one spot, the landing zone, which freezes into a 1-2ft thick ice slick. It is a great place to slip and wreck yourself. Which I did. But not before I was able to send the Lindner Project! The ice still hurt though.

     I named the problem “The Hunted” (V12), after Roy found a bighorn sheep skull that had been chomped straight in the face by a mountain lion (you could see the teeth holes in the bone, it was awesome). The problem sit starts and makes a few set up moves before launching into a sequence of really hard moves on really small holds, to a cryptic top-out. Overall the problem is good, but the rock quality in some places is lacking. All of the critical holds are totally solid though and the movement is great. Check it out.

-Will

CCS Comp @ UNC Feb. 18th

Taken from the UNC snowFALL facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/events/260819603986088/

"Come compete in the first Collegiate Climbing Series Comp of the 2012 season for the Rocky Mountain Region! Heat 1: 10:00am-1:30pm Schools from Northern Colorado, Boulder, and the Denver Area Heat 2: 2:00pm-530pm Schools from Southern Colorado, the Western Slope, and Out of State Results and Raffle: 6:00pm. Prizes donated by Crimp Chimps, Blue Sun, Vertical Girl, Access Fund, and REI. Entry Fee: $20 for CCS members, $25 for non-members $5 per person goes to Access Fund To become a CCS member, register at usaclimbing.org To register, email uncclimbing@yahoo.com by February 10th with the following info: Name Sex Date of Birth Category (Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced) School Name CCS Member Numeber (if applicable) Email Address To pay your entry fee by card, call (970)351-2936, or you can bring cash or check on the day of the comp. SPACE IS LIMITED, SO REGISTER NOW!" We will be carpooling up to Greely Saturday morning. Gas will be provided y the WSC Climbing Club. You will have to register for the CCS on your own and pay for your entry fee. It is a top-rope comp on 30ft walls. Bring your harness and such. I know that some other people and I are going to try to stick around Sunday and Monday (Presidents Day) to boulder at Horsetooth Reservoir. If you want to stay and climb, awesome. If you have to get back to Gunny, we'll work that out too. there will be at least 2 cars going to Greely. Let me or Roy know if you have questions. -Will

Finger Strength/Power

The 3 main reasons for failure on a climb or problem are:

1- Lack of Technique

2- Lack of Strength

3- Lack of Endurance

Lets get more specific with "Failure of Strength". What isn't strong enough? It isn't your arms and it isn't your back (Unless you are Chancho). It is your fingers. Don't believe me? Think about that boulder problem or route that you haven't sent yet. If all of those holds were huge handle-bar jugs, would you have sent it already? It doesn't matter if you can do a one arm pull-up and crank out front levers, if you can't hang onto the holds, you can't do the move, and if you can' do the move, you can't do the route/problem. 

Two weeks ago it occurred to me that I have never trained specifically for finger strength/power. So i came up with a pretty brutal training regimen to finally whip myself into shape for my Spring Break trip to The Buttermilks. I have decided to post this workout for a few reasons:

#1. The more I type it up the easier it is for me to remember

#2. It is working so far and I wanted to share it

#3. If I hurt myself it will be an example of 'what not to do'

And now for the disclaimer: I have been training and climbing for 10years. I have tendons of steel (hopefully this training will upgrade me to unobtainium). I would not recommend this to anyone who has been climbing for less than 5 years and isn't sending V8 or higher consistently. I am working on a less stressful training plan for people who do not meet the above criteria and I will be sure to post it once it is done. As I have said before, INJURIES SUCK! Don't be stupid.

Finger Strength/Power
edited: 4/6/12

Week Overview

Monday: Hard

Tuesday: Rest/Yoga

Wednesday: Easy

Thursday: Hard

Friday: Rest/ Yoga

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Climb Outside

WEEKS 1,2 & 5

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Weighted (20lbs) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

WEEK 3

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEK 4

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 2 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEKS 1-5

Wednesday: Easy

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-30-45min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Horizontal Pull-Ups (no weight); 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Russian Stands

-Burpees

Winter Training

                             

It seems like winter has finally decided to show up here in Gunnison, and with it, the indoor training season. This it the time of year I spend a majority of my waking hours pouring over guide books and planning trips in an effort to stay psyched while training to the point of nausea in our aging plywood prison. I used to hate it when the snow would roll in and render even the cold weather haven of Hartman Rocks un-climbable. Over the years however, I have learned to love the forced ‘indoor season’ and the feeling of emerging from winter’s plastic training cocoon and crushing my projects from the past season.

If I could only pass on 3 things I have learned in my 10 years of training I would choose these:

#1 Injuries Suck, REST!

Have you ever been injured? Then you know what I am talking about. Climbing is one of those activities, like eating Nutella and smoking crack, that is so fun it can be hard to stop. This is where all of those nasty over use injuries, like tendonitis and pulley tendon ruptures, start to really harsh your style. Throughout the year, and especially during training, it is imperative to rest adequately. Listen to your body. If you are having trouble taking a day or two off, just camp out on your couch with a huge jar of Nutella, a spoon, and start working your way through all of the X-Files episodes on Netflix. At least that’s what I do.

#2 There is a Difference Between Training and Performance

Climbing performance is variable. Some days you feel like The Hulk, and other days you get pumped just trying to unscrew the lid of you Nutella jar in the previous paragraph. You just have to go with it. Don’t waste your energy getting frustrated. One of the worst things you can do for your body and your psyche is to confuse training time, with performance time. For me it is pretty easy: If I am inside, it is always training time, competitions included. A lot of times, climbing outside is still training time. In reality there are relatively very few times when I go climbing that I actually consider performance time. So what is the difference? When it is training time you shouldn’t be worried much about how hard you are actually climbing. The only thing that matters is how hard you are trying. If you are training properly, your performance should actually decrease at times. Performance time is that trip, or even just a projecting session, you have been planning and preparing for for weeks (or months). Learn to separate your training time from your performance time and you will be less frustrated, more motivated, and you will ultimately become a better climber.

#3 Eat (Good) Food

If you train hard and don’t fuel your body properly, you will get hurt. A quick Google search will have you neck deep in performance nutrition articles. I won’t advocate for any certain one, but I would encourage you to do your own research and get involved in your own nutrition. Learn how to cook. You’ll be healthier and it’s also a great way to impress girls.

Best of the Best

     As I say goodbye to my last fall bouldering season here in the Gunnison Valley I decided to compile a list of the ‘best’ boulder problem for every grade V0-V12 here in The Valley. There are so many good problems it is hard to label just one as the 'best', so I chose problems that are benchmark for the grade, aesthetic, and indicative of the area. Here is what I came up with. This is just my opinion, comments and additions welcome!

THE BEST OF THE BEST

V0 – Cruisin’ for a Bruisin’ (Hartmans, The Other Side)

Great movement on a tall boulder, with good holds and plenty of intermediates for shorter folks.

                                                  

Ziggy on Cruisin' for a Bruisin' during the Gunnison Glory

V1 – Gunnison Crack (Hartmans, White Lightning Area)

The classic highball crack boulder problem. A must do for the Gunnison climber, just don’t blow it at the top!

V2 – Canine Levitation (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)

Have you ever taken a dog across a tyrolean…? Maybe leave the dog at home when you cross the river to get on this classic problem. Awesome edge climbing on amazing rock to a thoughtful topout over a good landing.

Aaron chalking up for Canine Levitation

V3 – Madagascar (Hartmans, The Stash)

Yup, that patina shield looks just like Madagascar. This problem stands out for its rock quality, aesthetics, and uniqueness of movement.

                                     

Madagascar

V4 – Look Ma! (Hartmans, Bambi’s Trail)

Highball. Scary landing. Sharp patina crimping. A little sandbagged. Classic Hartmans.

                                    

Look Ma!

V5 – Center El Skyland (Skyland, High Times)

This is definitely one of my personal favorites and I never leave Skyland without climbing it at least once. It is a direct line on a big boulder with a good landing. A heel hook, a big cross, and subtle body positioning will get this thing done.

                                             

Center El Skyland

V6 – Dirty Business (Skyland, Battleship)

Get yer crimp on with this Skyland classic! Small holds lead to a big finishing move and a fairly tall topout. Get dirty.

V7 – Atomic Tick Fever (Skyland, Hone Stone)

This may be one of the most sought after problems in The Valley. Edge compression straight up an overhanging face on a huge freestanding boulder at the edge of an aspen forest looking down at Crested Butte. What more could you want? A V10 sit start? Yeah, its got that too.

                                   

Getting the ATF sit start done on a perfect fall day.

V8 – Fight Test (Willow Creek, Fight Test Boulder)

Bring your friends…and have them bring their friends, you’re going to want a lot of pads and spotters for this one. To date there have only been two ascents: Chris Lindner’s flash FA, and my repeat directly after with a slightly harder direct finish variation. Topping out at 25+ feet with hard moves all the way to the lip this thing is the full package. How hard are you willing to fight for it?

                                                  

Don't let the lens fool you . . . this thing is TALL

V9 – The Plague (Real Lost Canyon, Damocles Boulders)

This recent addition is a real gem. Tucked away in the mostly chossy boulders of Real Lost Canyon, The Plague stands up as one of the best problems I’ve ever done. You’ll want good friction for this one. If you’re not wearing a jacket it might not be cold enough…

                                                  

Caleb on the 2nd ascent of The Plague

V10 – Supernatural (Skyland, Supernatural Boulder)

Did it get it’s name from the supernatural beauty of the line, the supernatural crimp strength needed to pull it off, or both? I could ramble for pages about how good this thing is, but you really just have to see it for yourself.

                                                   

Roy working out the crux moves on Supernatural

V11 – ??????

If there is a classic problem of this grade in the Gunnison Valley I am currently unaware of it. Though there are certainly some beautiful projects hanging around in that range.

V12 – Stigmata (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)

A project of mine for years, I finally pulled off the FA this fall. Extremely subtle and extremely powerful compression up an overhanging blade of granite. It could be a grade easier, and it could very possibly be a grade harder. It was a huge mental and physical leap for me so it is hard to assign a grade. This is unrepeated to date.           

                                   

Stigmata

Beta and directions to all of these problems can be found on Mountain Project. Bundle up and go climbing!

-Will Anglin

2012 CCS Schedule

Here is the current CCS comp schedule for the Spring 2012 semester. Lets carpool and try to get as many people as we can to each of these competitions. Let me know if you have any questions: william.anglin@western.edu

February 18th - UNC

March 3rd - CU @ The Spot !!!CANCELLED!!!

March 10th - WSC

March 31- San Juan

April 7th - UCCS @ Sport Climbing Center