Finger Strength/Power

The 3 main reasons for failure on a climb or problem are:

1- Lack of Technique

2- Lack of Strength

3- Lack of Endurance

Lets get more specific with "Failure of Strength". What isn't strong enough? It isn't your arms and it isn't your back (Unless you are Chancho). It is your fingers. Don't believe me? Think about that boulder problem or route that you haven't sent yet. If all of those holds were huge handle-bar jugs, would you have sent it already? It doesn't matter if you can do a one arm pull-up and crank out front levers, if you can't hang onto the holds, you can't do the move, and if you can' do the move, you can't do the route/problem. 

Two weeks ago it occurred to me that I have never trained specifically for finger strength/power. So i came up with a pretty brutal training regimen to finally whip myself into shape for my Spring Break trip to The Buttermilks. I have decided to post this workout for a few reasons:

#1. The more I type it up the easier it is for me to remember

#2. It is working so far and I wanted to share it

#3. If I hurt myself it will be an example of 'what not to do'

And now for the disclaimer: I have been training and climbing for 10years. I have tendons of steel (hopefully this training will upgrade me to unobtainium). I would not recommend this to anyone who has been climbing for less than 5 years and isn't sending V8 or higher consistently. I am working on a less stressful training plan for people who do not meet the above criteria and I will be sure to post it once it is done. As I have said before, INJURIES SUCK! Don't be stupid.

Finger Strength/Power
edited: 4/6/12

Week Overview

Monday: Hard

Tuesday: Rest/Yoga

Wednesday: Easy

Thursday: Hard

Friday: Rest/ Yoga

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Climb Outside

WEEKS 1,2 & 5

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Weighted (20lbs) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

WEEK 3

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEK 4

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 2 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEKS 1-5

Wednesday: Easy

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-30-45min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Horizontal Pull-Ups (no weight); 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Russian Stands

-Burpees

Winter Training

                             

It seems like winter has finally decided to show up here in Gunnison, and with it, the indoor training season. This it the time of year I spend a majority of my waking hours pouring over guide books and planning trips in an effort to stay psyched while training to the point of nausea in our aging plywood prison. I used to hate it when the snow would roll in and render even the cold weather haven of Hartman Rocks un-climbable. Over the years however, I have learned to love the forced ‘indoor season’ and the feeling of emerging from winter’s plastic training cocoon and crushing my projects from the past season.

If I could only pass on 3 things I have learned in my 10 years of training I would choose these:

#1 Injuries Suck, REST!

Have you ever been injured? Then you know what I am talking about. Climbing is one of those activities, like eating Nutella and smoking crack, that is so fun it can be hard to stop. This is where all of those nasty over use injuries, like tendonitis and pulley tendon ruptures, start to really harsh your style. Throughout the year, and especially during training, it is imperative to rest adequately. Listen to your body. If you are having trouble taking a day or two off, just camp out on your couch with a huge jar of Nutella, a spoon, and start working your way through all of the X-Files episodes on Netflix. At least that’s what I do.

#2 There is a Difference Between Training and Performance

Climbing performance is variable. Some days you feel like The Hulk, and other days you get pumped just trying to unscrew the lid of you Nutella jar in the previous paragraph. You just have to go with it. Don’t waste your energy getting frustrated. One of the worst things you can do for your body and your psyche is to confuse training time, with performance time. For me it is pretty easy: If I am inside, it is always training time, competitions included. A lot of times, climbing outside is still training time. In reality there are relatively very few times when I go climbing that I actually consider performance time. So what is the difference? When it is training time you shouldn’t be worried much about how hard you are actually climbing. The only thing that matters is how hard you are trying. If you are training properly, your performance should actually decrease at times. Performance time is that trip, or even just a projecting session, you have been planning and preparing for for weeks (or months). Learn to separate your training time from your performance time and you will be less frustrated, more motivated, and you will ultimately become a better climber.

#3 Eat (Good) Food

If you train hard and don’t fuel your body properly, you will get hurt. A quick Google search will have you neck deep in performance nutrition articles. I won’t advocate for any certain one, but I would encourage you to do your own research and get involved in your own nutrition. Learn how to cook. You’ll be healthier and it’s also a great way to impress girls.

Best of the Best

     As I say goodbye to my last fall bouldering season here in the Gunnison Valley I decided to compile a list of the ‘best’ boulder problem for every grade V0-V12 here in The Valley. There are so many good problems it is hard to label just one as the 'best', so I chose problems that are benchmark for the grade, aesthetic, and indicative of the area. Here is what I came up with. This is just my opinion, comments and additions welcome!

THE BEST OF THE BEST

V0 – Cruisin’ for a Bruisin’ (Hartmans, The Other Side)

Great movement on a tall boulder, with good holds and plenty of intermediates for shorter folks.

                                                  

Ziggy on Cruisin' for a Bruisin' during the Gunnison Glory

V1 – Gunnison Crack (Hartmans, White Lightning Area)

The classic highball crack boulder problem. A must do for the Gunnison climber, just don’t blow it at the top!

V2 – Canine Levitation (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)

Have you ever taken a dog across a tyrolean…? Maybe leave the dog at home when you cross the river to get on this classic problem. Awesome edge climbing on amazing rock to a thoughtful topout over a good landing.

Aaron chalking up for Canine Levitation

V3 – Madagascar (Hartmans, The Stash)

Yup, that patina shield looks just like Madagascar. This problem stands out for its rock quality, aesthetics, and uniqueness of movement.

                                     

Madagascar

V4 – Look Ma! (Hartmans, Bambi’s Trail)

Highball. Scary landing. Sharp patina crimping. A little sandbagged. Classic Hartmans.

                                    

Look Ma!

V5 – Center El Skyland (Skyland, High Times)

This is definitely one of my personal favorites and I never leave Skyland without climbing it at least once. It is a direct line on a big boulder with a good landing. A heel hook, a big cross, and subtle body positioning will get this thing done.

                                             

Center El Skyland

V6 – Dirty Business (Skyland, Battleship)

Get yer crimp on with this Skyland classic! Small holds lead to a big finishing move and a fairly tall topout. Get dirty.

V7 – Atomic Tick Fever (Skyland, Hone Stone)

This may be one of the most sought after problems in The Valley. Edge compression straight up an overhanging face on a huge freestanding boulder at the edge of an aspen forest looking down at Crested Butte. What more could you want? A V10 sit start? Yeah, its got that too.

                                   

Getting the ATF sit start done on a perfect fall day.

V8 – Fight Test (Willow Creek, Fight Test Boulder)

Bring your friends…and have them bring their friends, you’re going to want a lot of pads and spotters for this one. To date there have only been two ascents: Chris Lindner’s flash FA, and my repeat directly after with a slightly harder direct finish variation. Topping out at 25+ feet with hard moves all the way to the lip this thing is the full package. How hard are you willing to fight for it?

                                                  

Don't let the lens fool you . . . this thing is TALL

V9 – The Plague (Real Lost Canyon, Damocles Boulders)

This recent addition is a real gem. Tucked away in the mostly chossy boulders of Real Lost Canyon, The Plague stands up as one of the best problems I’ve ever done. You’ll want good friction for this one. If you’re not wearing a jacket it might not be cold enough…

                                                  

Caleb on the 2nd ascent of The Plague

V10 – Supernatural (Skyland, Supernatural Boulder)

Did it get it’s name from the supernatural beauty of the line, the supernatural crimp strength needed to pull it off, or both? I could ramble for pages about how good this thing is, but you really just have to see it for yourself.

                                                   

Roy working out the crux moves on Supernatural

V11 – ??????

If there is a classic problem of this grade in the Gunnison Valley I am currently unaware of it. Though there are certainly some beautiful projects hanging around in that range.

V12 – Stigmata (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)

A project of mine for years, I finally pulled off the FA this fall. Extremely subtle and extremely powerful compression up an overhanging blade of granite. It could be a grade easier, and it could very possibly be a grade harder. It was a huge mental and physical leap for me so it is hard to assign a grade. This is unrepeated to date.           

                                   

Stigmata

Beta and directions to all of these problems can be found on Mountain Project. Bundle up and go climbing!

-Will Anglin

2012 CCS Schedule

Here is the current CCS comp schedule for the Spring 2012 semester. Lets carpool and try to get as many people as we can to each of these competitions. Let me know if you have any questions: william.anglin@western.edu

February 18th - UNC

March 3rd - CU @ The Spot !!!CANCELLED!!!

March 10th - WSC

March 31- San Juan

April 7th - UCCS @ Sport Climbing Center

RLC Update

We have been racing to finish up all the lines we found at RLC before winter hits us full bore! First of all I am pretty excited about the new problem, Balance of Power. This problem joins Seventh Day (V8) and The Plague (V9) as one of the best climbs I have done in RLC, and anywhere for that matter. I am also excited because it might be RLC’s first V10! Balance of Power climbs a tall arête with powerful compression moves to a committing and potentially dangerous topout. I cleaned and sent the line in a day, so originally graded it V8+, but a recent trip to Joe’s Valley, and efforts by other strong climbers, have put the difficulty more into perspective. So she gets the upgrade.

Caleb working Balance of Power (V10?)

I FA’d another really interesting line the other day that has some very cool beta. Located on the Cake Boulder, Somber Thoughts makes some cool gymnastic moves on a steep boulder, culminating in a wild-blind-cobra-strike-toe-hook move around a corner to top out! I have to give props to Roy who put the idea of a toe-hook in my head. This is definitely a very unique line and a good addition to RLC.

FA of Somber Thoughts (V8?)

p.s. You can see the chalked 'holds' straight up for the Burning Planets Project

There is a direct finish to Somber Thoughts...the Burning Planets Project. This project could definitely be in the V11-12 range, but it is a little contrived. There are only a few more hard projects left at RLC, but there are tons of great moderates out there ripe for pickin’ for whoever has the motivation and a brush. Get out there and SEND!

-Will Anglin

RLC Resurgence

People have been climbing at Real Lost Canyon (RLC) for decades. There is however a lack of accessible, reliable information about the existing routes and boulder problems. A number of weeks ago Aaron and I headed out to RLC on a rest day to try and track down some boulders that might be accessible through the winter months. At first RLC looks like it could be the most concentrated bouldering area in the valley, surpassing even the Skyland Boulders at the base of Mt. Crested Butte. Unfortunately the rock quality leaves something to be desired. The sandstone here is very brittle. I would describe it like an egg. A very hard outer patina shell that, when broken, reveals the soft, white, sandy center. Some of the rock is mind-blowing choss, but tucked away in these boulders are some of the best problems I have ever climbed! So there is the disclaimer…all nay saying about the rock quality aside, RLC has some of the best moderately hard (V8-9) boulder problems in the valley. The rock seems to be very conducive to these grades. Mainly because all the big holds break, and what you are left with are beautiful steep lines with small holds, slopers, thoughtful movement, and great texture. I am very excited about this “rediscovery” of RLC. To put it into perspective…I have spent 5 years actively developing bouldering at Hartmans, and have only just started finding good problems there in the V8-V10+ range. After only two days at RLC I was able to put up two V8’s and a V9, all three are CLASSIC, and there are multiple projects that could be harder and just as quality. Over the past few weeks a crew of dedicated Gunni climbers have been bundling up, braving the cold, and putting in the hard work of finding and cleaning new problems for what is sure to become a great resource for bouldering in the Gunnison Valley.

I want to mention: Aaron, Caleb, Alek, Kyle, Roy, Spenser, and Pat. All of these guys have been instrumental in helping to get this area off to a good start.

Anyone interested in getting in on the action, feel free to shoot me an email: wlanglin@comcast.net

For some absolutely amazing photos of RLC check out Spenser Li’s Flickr account:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20673597@N04/

Climb Safe,

Will Anglin

Here is a short film of some of the most classic lines at RLC:

Get more beta HERE

Hey Folks!

Looking for some super sweet bouldering pics?

Well then its a good thing we found Lost Canyon!

Check out:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20673597@N04/sets/72157628136559352/

to see more photos