Hartmans Update

Some new problems have gone up recently at Hartmans! Caleb Justice sent his project Pride Rock (V7-) at The Far Side, Alek Pouliopolis nabbed the 2^nd ascent of this gem shortly after. This might be the best problem of the grade in all of Hartmans. Really cool movement on an overhanging refrigerator block of really high quality stone. Get out there and climb it! Also new at Hartmans is The Contortionist (V8+) at The Stash. I got the FA of this short, but powerful problem today after a great session of repeating a lot of classics in the area. The Stash has a high concentration of GREAT problems! Everyone should get out there. The problems Madagascar (V3), Straight Razor (V3), Birdman (V4+ HB), Africa VIP (V4), and The Contortionist (V8+) are some of the best problems anywhere around Gunnison. I was also able to get the 2^nd ascent of Caleb’s core-tension testpiece Attack of The Bongos (V9-). There has been some speculation that the absence of a thumbcatch that was present at the first ascent has upped the grade. Having not tried the problem before the break, I can’t say whether it has gotten harder, but I feel confident that the grade now is solid in the easy V9 range. Attack of The Bongos is definitely one of Hartmans best and hardest problems. Big props to Caleb for unlocking the beta and putting up this amazing problem! There is so much rock at Hartmans! If anyone is interested in doing some development let me know, I can point you towards some great boulders. Get out and explore too! If you think you’ve put up some new boulders, log into www.mountainproject.com and update the Hartmans bouldering page.

- Will Anglin

Here are some sweet Hartmans pics to get you excited…

Aaron sticking the crux on Jenny V6-

Photo: W. Anglin

Will on the FA of The Contortionist (V8+)

Photo: C. Justice

Elyssa on Magic Shoes (V2+)

Photo: A. Newell

Caleb on Pride Rock (V7-)

Photo: W. Anglin

Fall Break at Joe's Valley

Joe’s Valley, just outside of Orangeville Utah, is a bouldering paradise. Only 5.5 hours from the WSC campus, the super featured sandstone blocks at Joe’s offer some of the most fun and aesthetic boulder problems in the country. The climbing is also incredibly diverse, encompassing every climbing style from splitter cracks to steep gymnastic problems, and classic lines from V0-V14. Still not sold? Guess what, the camping is FREE. While Joe’s offers a lot of freedom it is important (as with every climbing area) to be good stewards. Try to minimize your impact, camp only in designated campgrounds, and leave the area cleaner than you found it.

On Wednesday Oct. 12^th, Caleb Justice, Aaron Newell, and I rolled into the Man-Sized Area campground and promptly headed to bed in anticipation for the next day’s sandstone sweetness. After a quick breakfast of oatmeal on Thursday morning we headed directly to the Right Sign Area to get on the classic Wills Of Fire (V6) and check out my project for the trip Beyond Life (V10).

Caleb working Beyond Life, March 2011

Photo: M. Hill

I first tried Beyond Life last year at the end of my last day of a nine-day trip. Six of my fingers were already down to blood, but it looked so amazing, I had to try it. I didn’t even come close to doing it, but I knew I’d be back for it. The three of us sent Wills Of Fire, and then shifted focus to some of the harder problems on the boulder. Surprisingly, I was able to send Beyond Life after a couple tries, I think it is one of the best boulder problems I have ever done. Caleb was almost able to send, even with a fully taped index finger (the result of an unfortunate work-related razorblade accident). Aaron put in some solid tries on They Call Him Jordan (V8) before we decided the heat of the day was affecting the friction too much.

Aaron getting a boost from Will while working They Call Him Jordan

Photo: C. Justice

What do you do when it is too hot to climb? Hang out at the Food Ranch of course. The Food Ranch is the local gas station/grocery store in Orangeville. It is a great place to buy food (the doughnuts, aka: Send Rings, are amazing!), fuel up the car, and fill up water. There are also public bathrooms and a sweet lounge upstairs.

After watching some climbing movies up in the lounge and refueling our bellies, we headed back to the blocks for an evening session. After warming up on the best V5 in the world, Kill By Numbers (Aaron flashed it!), we rolled over to Worst Case Scenario (V9).

Caleb on Worst Case Scenario

Photo: W. Anglin

Despite being slightly contrived (in my opinion), this problem is a blast and not to be missed if you climb the grade. I was able to send on the third go, Caleb and Aaron were painfully close to sending and vowed to come back.

The next day we hiked up to the amazing Skeleton Key (V11), and Caleb and I spent most of the morning getting heartbreakingly close to the send, but ultimately left empty handed. The rest of the day was spent scoping out other problems and checking out areas we hadn’t been before.

Saturday we went to check out a problem called Black Dahlia (V10), but we arrived too late and the sun was already cooking the black rock.

Aaron on Black Dahlia

Photo: W. Anglin

Still, we were able to try it a few times and eventually decided that we would have to come back in November after it cooled down more. After a lunch break and a quick stop at the Food Ranch, we headed to Moment of Truth (V10).

Will on Moment of Truth

Photo: A. Newell

Moment of Truth sits back in a canyon of huge water polished blocks all by itself. On one side of the boulder a small stream trickles down and under a house sized boulder that provides a nice sloped landing. The problem and its surroundings are so perfect. I was almost able to send, but fell twice off the top out mantle, another project for next time. That evening we found ourselves back at Worst Case Scenario, where Aaron was nearly able to send, falling off the last hard move over and over. Not bad for a guy who has been sick for over a week.

Aaron on Worst Case Scenario

Photo: W. Anglin

Saturday night we were all so tired we knew we wouldn’t be able to climb much the next day, so we packed up and headed back to Gunny.

We are headed back to Joe’s Valley over Thanksgiving break, you should come too!

-Will Anglin

P.S. Here is a quick video of some sends on the trip before the camera died.

The Graveyard Boulders

To get to the Graveyard Boulders from Gunni you drive up to Almont and take a right into Taylor Canyon. Drive past first and second buttress to mile marker 10 (or just look across the river for the Coffin Cracks), park at the lot on the right before the cabin. Now comes the fun part… to get to the boulders you walk about 30-40m upriver, strip down to your undies, hike the crashpads as high up on you back as they can go and walk across the river. “Walk” is slightly misleading, more like “struggle to stay standing in waist deep, fast moving water”.

Will and Roy crossing the Taylor (Photo: A. Newell)

After surviving the river, head down stream about 200m and the first boulder you’ll probably notice is the looming Fuzzy Bottom Boulder right off of the trail. The 20ft. super crimpy line up the center of the boulder is the classic face climbing test-piece, Flatline (V8), established by local Taylor Canyon resident Duffy Hutchins. One of the best moderates ever is on the same boulder just around to the right; Canine Levitation (V2) sit starts on a nice angled rail and makes some awesome moves to an easy top out. Next you can test your mettle against the arête climb to the left of Flatline, called, Like a Boss(V2). This climb boasts a much spicier topout than Canine Levitation. If you cruise “Like a Boss” then you can truly test your mental game on the newly established Murderball (V5) on the crimpy face just leftof Canine Levitation, but make sure you’ve got a lot of pads because a fall off the crux could really ruin your season.

Caleb on the 2nd ascent of Murderball V5 (Photo: W. Anglin)

If you crossed the river for more moderate problems then you can head up the hill and get some burns in on the Umbrella Boulder with the lowballs Pimp Smack (V4-5) and Mary Poppins (V4). You could also sneak through a hole to the right and try the powerful and technical, Flightless Bird (V5).

Aaron sending Flightless Bird (Photo: W. Anglin)

Think you’re good at crimps…then wander back upriver to check out Will Anglin’s recently established, Stigmata (V12?).

Even if you’re not going to try the problem, just feeling the holds will be a humbling experience. Overall, The Graveyard Boulders are home to some of the best boulder problems in the valley, and there is still a ton of development to be done. For more information, check out: www.mountainproject.com.

- Aaron Newell