As I say goodbye to my last fall bouldering season here in the Gunnison Valley I decided to compile a list of the ‘best’ boulder problem for every grade V0-V12 here in The Valley. There are so many good problems it is hard to label just one as the 'best', so I chose problems that are benchmark for the grade, aesthetic, and indicative of the area. Here is what I came up with. This is just my opinion, comments and additions welcome!
THE BEST OF THE BEST
V0 – Cruisin’ for a Bruisin’ (Hartmans, The Other Side)
Great movement on a tall boulder, with good holds and plenty of intermediates for shorter folks.
Ziggy on Cruisin' for a Bruisin' during the Gunnison Glory
V1 – Gunnison Crack (Hartmans, White Lightning Area)
The classic highball crack boulder problem. A must do for the Gunnison climber, just don’t blow it at the top!
V2 – Canine Levitation (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)
Have you ever taken a dog across a tyrolean…? Maybe leave the dog at home when you cross the river to get on this classic problem. Awesome edge climbing on amazing rock to a thoughtful topout over a good landing.
Aaron chalking up for Canine Levitation
V3 – Madagascar (Hartmans, The Stash)
Yup, that patina shield looks just like Madagascar. This problem stands out for its rock quality, aesthetics, and uniqueness of movement.
Madagascar
V4 – Look Ma! (Hartmans, Bambi’s Trail)
Highball. Scary landing. Sharp patina crimping. A little sandbagged. Classic Hartmans.
Look Ma!
V5 – Center El Skyland (Skyland, High Times)
This is definitely one of my personal favorites and I never leave Skyland without climbing it at least once. It is a direct line on a big boulder with a good landing. A heel hook, a big cross, and subtle body positioning will get this thing done.
Center El Skyland
V6 – Dirty Business (Skyland, Battleship)
Get yer crimp on with this Skyland classic! Small holds lead to a big finishing move and a fairly tall topout. Get dirty.
V7 – Atomic Tick Fever (Skyland, Hone Stone)
This may be one of the most sought after problems in The Valley. Edge compression straight up an overhanging face on a huge freestanding boulder at the edge of an aspen forest looking down at Crested Butte. What more could you want? A V10 sit start? Yeah, its got that too.
Getting the ATF sit start done on a perfect fall day.
V8 – Fight Test (Willow Creek, Fight Test Boulder)
Bring your friends…and have them bring their friends, you’re going to want a lot of pads and spotters for this one. To date there have only been two ascents: Chris Lindner’s flash FA, and my repeat directly after with a slightly harder direct finish variation. Topping out at 25+ feet with hard moves all the way to the lip this thing is the full package. How hard are you willing to fight for it?
Don't let the lens fool you . . . this thing is TALL
V9 – The Plague (Real Lost Canyon, Damocles Boulders)
This recent addition is a real gem. Tucked away in the mostly chossy boulders of Real Lost Canyon, The Plague stands up as one of the best problems I’ve ever done. You’ll want good friction for this one. If you’re not wearing a jacket it might not be cold enough…
Caleb on the 2nd ascent of The Plague
V10 – Supernatural (Skyland, Supernatural Boulder)
Did it get it’s name from the supernatural beauty of the line, the supernatural crimp strength needed to pull it off, or both? I could ramble for pages about how good this thing is, but you really just have to see it for yourself.
Roy working out the crux moves on Supernatural
V11 – ??????
If there is a classic problem of this grade in the Gunnison Valley I am currently unaware of it. Though there are certainly some beautiful projects hanging around in that range.
V12 – Stigmata (Taylor Canyon, Graveyard)
A project of mine for years, I finally pulled off the FA this fall. Extremely subtle and extremely powerful compression up an overhanging blade of granite. It could be a grade easier, and it could very possibly be a grade harder. It was a huge mental and physical leap for me so it is hard to assign a grade. This is unrepeated to date.
Stigmata
Beta and directions to all of these problems can be found on Mountain Project. Bundle up and go climbing!
-Will Anglin
