Saturday, April 21, 2012

STIGMATA

Caleb on Stigmata

You remember how a few months ago Caleb sent his first V10? Well now he has done his first V12 (skipping V11 I mught add)! A few weeks ago Caleb repeated my route Stigmata at the Graveyard Boulders for its second ascent. It was so amazing to watch Caleb work on and send this boulder. He has definitely broken through a mental barrier and is CRUSHING right now. Be ready to hear about some other sick ascents as Caleb sets his sights on other hard, unrepeated boulders in The Valley!

Check out this video of Caleb's send and also some other great problems at the Graveyard Boulders:

http://vimeo.com/39977805

-Will Anglin

Rock Wars V: The Pulley Strikes Back


You know what sucks? Not climbing. 6 weeks ago I tore the A4 pulley in my left ring finger. It was bad. I haven’t climbed in 6 weeks, and I won’t be climbing for the next few months either. This is the third major injury I have had in my climbing career. In my 10 years of climbing, I have only really climbed 8, with 2 years taken off due to injury.

This injury was particularly frustrating for 2 big reasons:

#1 The day before the injury I had stuck the last hard move on the Hartmans Project (5.14b?) from the ground and fell crossing to the finish jug! HEARTBREAKER!!!

#2 It came out of NOWHERE. I had been taking plenty of rest days, and had never experienced any pain or tweaks in my fingers that would have warned me of impending injury. One second I felt like superman and the next second my climbing season was over. Total mind-#*@%!

I will be writing posts about my recovery process in case you are interested.

-Will Anglin