WSC Climbing: November 2011

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

RLC Update

We have been racing to finish up all the lines we found at RLC before winter hits us full bore! First of all I am pretty excited about the new problem, Balance of Power. This problem joins Seventh Day (V8) and The Plague (V9) as one of the best climbs I have done in RLC, and anywhere for that matter. I am also excited because it might be RLC’s first V10! Balance of Power climbs a tall arête with powerful compression moves to a committing and potentially dangerous topout. I cleaned and sent the line in a day, so originally graded it V8+, but a recent trip to Joe’s Valley, and efforts by other strong climbers, have put the difficulty more into perspective. So she gets the upgrade.

Caleb working Balance of Power (V10?)

I FA’d another really interesting line the other day that has some very cool beta. Located on the Cake Boulder, Somber Thoughts makes some cool gymnastic moves on a steep boulder, culminating in a wild-blind-cobra-strike-toe-hook move around a corner to top out! I have to give props to Roy who put the idea of a toe-hook in my head. This is definitely a very unique line and a good addition to RLC.

FA of Somber Thoughts (V8?)

p.s. You can see the chalked 'holds' straight up for the Burning Planets Project

There is a direct finish to Somber Thoughts...the Burning Planets Project. This project could definitely be in the V11-12 range, but it is a little contrived. There are only a few more hard projects left at RLC, but there are tons of great moderates out there ripe for pickin’ for whoever has the motivation and a brush. Get out there and SEND!

-Will Anglin

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

RLC Resurgence

People have been climbing at Real Lost Canyon (RLC) for decades. There is however a lack of accessible, reliable information about the existing routes and boulder problems. A number of weeks ago Aaron and I headed out to RLC on a rest day to try and track down some boulders that might be accessible through the winter months. At first RLC looks like it could be the most concentrated bouldering area in the valley, surpassing even the Skyland Boulders at the base of Mt. Crested Butte. Unfortunately the rock quality leaves something to be desired. The sandstone here is very brittle. I would describe it like an egg. A very hard outer patina shell that, when broken, reveals the soft, white, sandy center. Some of the rock is mind-blowing choss, but tucked away in these boulders are some of the best problems I have ever climbed! So there is the disclaimer…all nay saying about the rock quality aside, RLC has some of the best moderately hard (V8-9) boulder problems in the valley. The rock seems to be very conducive to these grades. Mainly because all the big holds break, and what you are left with are beautiful steep lines with small holds, slopers, thoughtful movement, and great texture. I am very excited about this “rediscovery” of RLC. To put it into perspective…I have spent 5 years actively developing bouldering at Hartmans, and have only just started finding good problems there in the V8-V10+ range. After only two days at RLC I was able to put up two V8’s and a V9, all three are CLASSIC, and there are multiple projects that could be harder and just as quality. Over the past few weeks a crew of dedicated Gunni climbers have been bundling up, braving the cold, and putting in the hard work of finding and cleaning new problems for what is sure to become a great resource for bouldering in the Gunnison Valley.

I want to mention: Aaron, Caleb, Alek, Kyle, Roy, Spenser, and Pat. All of these guys have been instrumental in helping to get this area off to a good start.

Anyone interested in getting in on the action, feel free to shoot me an email: wlanglin@comcast.net

For some absolutely amazing photos of RLC check out Spenser Li’s Flickr account:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/20673597@N04/

Climb Safe,

Will Anglin

Here is a short film of some of the most classic lines at RLC:

Get more beta HERE