Friday, February 24, 2012

Wise Words From...MACLEOD!

If you didn't laugh when you read the title of this post, go watch "Highlander", then read it again. If you still didn't laugh...I'd suspect you were an android of some sort...

 There can be only one!


Seriously though. These are some of my favorite posts by Dave MacLeod. Dave is a badass. He boulders V14, climbs 5.14d sport, 5.14c X trad, 5.14+ bigwalls, cutting edge mixed climbs, and burly winter alpine ascents. All in one Scottish dude. He knows what he's talking about.

Oh whats that? 
Its just Mr. MacLeod free-soloing a 5.14b sport route in Spain.

READ THESE!


Distracted From The Task At Hand

Learn The Hard Way?

Through The Whole Move

Training The Ability To Try

Technique Learning



Thanks for reading those! Now you can watch this sweet video of Dave climbing/talking.


-Will

Monday, February 20, 2012

Breaking the Barrier


Yesterday I got to watch Caleb send his first V10! In a time when V14’s are getting flashed and superhuman feats on the rock seem to happen everyday, sending V10 is still considered the gateway into really difficult climbing. Caleb has been training like a machine for the past five weeks in preparation for a Spring Break trip to Bishop and it was awesome to see his hard work pay off. The problem he sent was Balance of Power at RLC. It was also the first repeat of the problem. So congratulations Caleb!

Here is a video of the send:



Saturday, February 11, 2012

The Lindner Project


Staying warm at Willow in 2009


     A few winters ago Chris Lindner moved out to Gunnison for a few months. My friend Ellis was in town too so the three of us went out to Willow Creek to try some projects I had started working on over the summer. That day Chris flashed the first ascent of Fight Test (a really highball V8), did the first ascent of The World Is Your Burrito (a V9 until it broke recently), and also got the first ascent of The B (a V10 that is still unrepeated). To cap it all off he cleaned up a project on the roadside boulder that we all worked on into the night. No one sent, but Chris thought it was probably in the hard V12 range. Unfortunately Chris had to leave the valley before he got back to the project, so it never got sent.

 
Chris working on the project (2009)


     Despite being February, today was sunny and super warm! Josh, Terry, Kyle, Caleb, and I went out to Willow for some sweet sweet road side ice bouldering. Ice bouldering because the slope of the terrain around the boulder causes all the snowmelt to pool in one spot, the landing zone, which freezes into a 1-2ft thick ice slick. It is a great place to slip and wreck yourself. Which I did. But not before I was able to send the Lindner Project! The ice still hurt though.

     I named the problem “The Hunted” (V12), after Roy found a bighorn sheep skull that had been chomped straight in the face by a mountain lion (you could see the teeth holes in the bone, it was awesome). The problem sit starts and makes a few set up moves before launching into a sequence of really hard moves on really small holds, to a cryptic top-out. Overall the problem is good, but the rock quality in some places is lacking. All of the critical holds are totally solid though and the movement is great. Check it out.

-Will

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

CCS Comp @ UNC Feb. 18th


Taken from the UNC snowFALL facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/events/260819603986088/
"Come compete in the first Collegiate Climbing Series Comp of the 2012 season for the Rocky Mountain Region!

Heat 1: 10:00am-1:30pm
Schools from Northern Colorado, Boulder, and the Denver Area
Heat 2: 2:00pm-530pm
Schools from Southern Colorado, the Western Slope, and Out of State
Results and Raffle: 6:00pm. Prizes donated by Crimp Chimps, Blue Sun, Vertical Girl, Access Fund, and REI.

Entry Fee: $20 for CCS members, $25 for non-members
$5 per person goes to Access Fund
To become a CCS member, register at usaclimbing.org

To register, email uncclimbing@yahoo.com by February 10th with the following info:

Name
Sex
Date of Birth
Category (Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced)
School Name
CCS Member Numeber (if applicable)
Email Address

To pay your entry fee by card, call (970)351-2936, or you can bring cash or check on the day of the comp.

SPACE IS LIMITED, SO REGISTER NOW!"

We will be carpooling up to Greely Saturday morning. Gas will be provided y the WSC Climbing Club. You will have to register for the CCS on your own and pay for your entry fee.

It is a top-rope comp on 30ft walls. Bring your harness and such.

I know that some other people and I are going to try to stick around Sunday and Monday (Presidents Day) to boulder at Horsetooth Reservoir. If you want to stay and climb, awesome. If you have to get back to Gunny, we'll work that out too. there will be at least 2 cars going to Greely.

Let me or Roy know if you have questions.

-Will