Wednesday, November 30, 2011

RLC Update

We have been racing to finish up all the lines we found at RLC before winter hits us full bore! First of all I am pretty excited about the new problem, Balance of Power. This problem joins Seventh Day (V8) and The Plague (V9) as one of the best climbs I have done in RLC, and anywhere for that matter. I am also excited because it might be RLC’s first V10! Balance of Power climbs a tall arête with powerful compression moves to a committing and potentially dangerous topout. I cleaned and sent the line in a day, so originally graded it V8+, but a recent trip to Joe’s Valley, and efforts by other strong climbers, have put the difficulty more into perspective. So she gets the upgrade.

Caleb working Balance of Power (V10?)


I FA’d another really interesting line the other day that has some very cool beta. Located on the Cake Boulder, Somber Thoughts makes some cool gymnastic moves on a steep boulder, culminating in a wild-blind-cobra-strike-toe-hook move around a corner to top out! I have to give props to Roy who put the idea of a toe-hook in my head. This is definitely a very unique line and a good addition to RLC.

FA of Somber Thoughts (V8?)
p.s. You can see the chalked 'holds' straight up for the Burning Planets Project


There is a direct finish to Somber Thoughts...the Burning Planets Project. This project could definitely be in the V11-12 range, but it is a little contrived. There are only a few more hard projects left at RLC, but there are tons of great moderates out there ripe for pickin’ for whoever has the motivation and a brush. Get out there and SEND!

-Will Anglin

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