Finger Strength/Power

The 3 main reasons for failure on a climb or problem are:

1- Lack of Technique

2- Lack of Strength

3- Lack of Endurance

Lets get more specific with "Failure of Strength". What isn't strong enough? It isn't your arms and it isn't your back (Unless you are Chancho). It is your fingers. Don't believe me? Think about that boulder problem or route that you haven't sent yet. If all of those holds were huge handle-bar jugs, would you have sent it already? It doesn't matter if you can do a one arm pull-up and crank out front levers, if you can't hang onto the holds, you can't do the move, and if you can' do the move, you can't do the route/problem. 

Two weeks ago it occurred to me that I have never trained specifically for finger strength/power. So i came up with a pretty brutal training regimen to finally whip myself into shape for my Spring Break trip to The Buttermilks. I have decided to post this workout for a few reasons:

#1. The more I type it up the easier it is for me to remember

#2. It is working so far and I wanted to share it

#3. If I hurt myself it will be an example of 'what not to do'

And now for the disclaimer: I have been training and climbing for 10years. I have tendons of steel (hopefully this training will upgrade me to unobtainium). I would not recommend this to anyone who has been climbing for less than 5 years and isn't sending V8 or higher consistently. I am working on a less stressful training plan for people who do not meet the above criteria and I will be sure to post it once it is done. As I have said before, INJURIES SUCK! Don't be stupid.

Finger Strength/Power
edited: 4/6/12

Week Overview

Monday: Hard

Tuesday: Rest/Yoga

Wednesday: Easy

Thursday: Hard

Friday: Rest/ Yoga

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Climb Outside

WEEKS 1,2 & 5

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Weighted (20lbs) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

WEEK 3

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEK 4

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 2 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEKS 1-5

Wednesday: Easy

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-30-45min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Horizontal Pull-Ups (no weight); 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Russian Stands

-Burpees