It seems like winter has finally decided to show up here in
Gunnison, and with it, the indoor training season. This it the time of year I
spend a majority of my waking hours pouring over guide books and planning trips
in an effort to stay psyched while training to the point of nausea in our aging
plywood prison. I used to hate it when the snow would roll in and render even
the cold weather haven of Hartman Rocks un-climbable. Over the years however, I
have learned to love the forced ‘indoor season’ and the feeling of emerging
from winter’s plastic training cocoon and crushing my projects from the past
season.
If I could only pass on 3 things I have learned in my 10
years of training I would choose these:
#1 Injuries Suck, REST!
Have you ever been injured? Then you know what I am talking
about. Climbing is one of those activities, like eating Nutella and smoking
crack, that is so fun it can be hard to stop. This is where all of those nasty
over use injuries, like tendonitis and pulley tendon ruptures, start to really
harsh your style. Throughout the year, and especially during training, it is
imperative to rest adequately. Listen to your body. If you are having trouble
taking a day or two off, just camp out on your couch with a huge jar of
Nutella, a spoon, and start working your way through all of the X-Files
episodes on Netflix. At least that’s what I do.
#2 There is a Difference Between Training and Performance
Climbing performance is variable. Some days you feel like
The Hulk, and other days you get pumped just trying to unscrew the lid of you
Nutella jar in the previous paragraph. You just have to go with it. Don’t waste
your energy getting frustrated. One of the worst things you can do for your
body and your psyche is to confuse training time, with performance time. For me
it is pretty easy: If I am inside, it is always training time, competitions
included. A lot of times, climbing outside is still training time. In reality
there are relatively very few times when I go climbing that I actually consider
performance time. So what is the difference? When it is training time you
shouldn’t be worried much about how hard you are actually climbing. The only
thing that matters is how hard you are trying. If you are training properly,
your performance should actually decrease at times. Performance time is that
trip, or even just a projecting session, you have been planning and preparing
for for weeks (or months). Learn to separate your training time from your
performance time and you will be less frustrated, more motivated, and you will
ultimately become a better climber.
#3 Eat (Good) Food
If you train hard and don’t fuel your body properly, you will get hurt. A quick Google search will have you neck deep in performance nutrition articles. I won’t advocate for any certain one, but I would encourage you to do your own research and get involved in your own nutrition. Learn how to cook. You’ll be healthier and it’s also a great way to impress girls.
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