STIGMATA

Caleb on Stigmata

You remember how a few months ago Caleb sent his first V10? Well now he has done his first V12 (skipping V11 I mught add)! A few weeks ago Caleb repeated my route Stigmata at the Graveyard Boulders for its second ascent. It was so amazing to watch Caleb work on and send this boulder. He has definitely broken through a mental barrier and is CRUSHING right now. Be ready to hear about some other sick ascents as Caleb sets his sights on other hard, unrepeated boulders in The Valley!

Check out this video of Caleb's send and also some other great problems at the Graveyard Boulders:

http://vimeo.com/39977805

-Will Anglin

Rock Wars V: The Pulley Strikes Back

You know what sucks? Not climbing. 6 weeks ago I tore the A4 pulley in my left ring finger. It was bad. I haven’t climbed in 6 weeks, and I won’t be climbing for the next few months either. This is the third major injury I have had in my climbing career. In my 10 years of climbing, I have only really climbed 8, with 2 years taken off due to injury.

This injury was particularly frustrating for 2 big reasons:

#1 The day before the injury I had stuck the last hard move on the Hartmans Project (5.14b?) from the ground and fell crossing to the finish jug! HEARTBREAKER!!!

#2 It came out of NOWHERE. I had been taking plenty of rest days, and had never experienced any pain or tweaks in my fingers that would have warned me of impending injury. One second I felt like superman and the next second my climbing season was over. Total mind-#*@%!

I will be writing posts about my recovery process in case you are interested.

-Will Anglin

Wise Words From...MACLEOD!

If you didn't laugh when you read the title of this post, go watch "Highlander", then read it again. If you still didn't laugh...I'd suspect you were an android of some sort...

 There can be only one!

Seriously though. These are some of my favorite posts by Dave MacLeod. Dave is a badass. He boulders V14, climbs 5.14d sport, 5.14c X trad, 5.14+ bigwalls, cutting edge mixed climbs, and burly winter alpine ascents. All in one Scottish dude. He knows what he's talking about.

Oh whats that? 

Its just Mr. MacLeod free-soloing a 5.14b sport route in Spain.

READ THESE!


Distracted From The Task At Hand

Learn The Hard Way?

Through The Whole Move

Training The Ability To Try

Technique Learning



Thanks for reading those! Now you can watch this sweet video of Dave climbing/talking.


-Will

Breaking the Barrier

Yesterday I got to watch Caleb send his first V10! In a time when V14’s are getting flashed and superhuman feats on the rock seem to happen everyday, sending V10 is still considered the gateway into really difficult climbing. Caleb has been training like a machine for the past five weeks in preparation for a Spring Break trip to Bishop and it was awesome to see his hard work pay off. The problem he sent was Balance of Power at RLC. It was also the first repeat of the problem. So congratulations Caleb!

Here is a video of the send:

The Lindner Project

Staying warm at Willow in 2009

     A few winters ago Chris Lindner moved out to Gunnison for a few months. My friend Ellis was in town too so the three of us went out to Willow Creek to try some projects I had started working on over the summer. That day Chris flashed the first ascent of Fight Test (a really highball V8), did the first ascent of The World Is Your Burrito (a V9 until it broke recently), and also got the first ascent of The B (a V10 that is still unrepeated). To cap it all off he cleaned up a project on the roadside boulder that we all worked on into the night. No one sent, but Chris thought it was probably in the hard V12 range. Unfortunately Chris had to leave the valley before he got back to the project, so it never got sent.

 

Chris working on the project (2009)

     Despite being February, today was sunny and super warm! Josh, Terry, Kyle, Caleb, and I went out to Willow for some sweet sweet road side ice bouldering. Ice bouldering because the slope of the terrain around the boulder causes all the snowmelt to pool in one spot, the landing zone, which freezes into a 1-2ft thick ice slick. It is a great place to slip and wreck yourself. Which I did. But not before I was able to send the Lindner Project! The ice still hurt though.

     I named the problem “The Hunted” (V12), after Roy found a bighorn sheep skull that had been chomped straight in the face by a mountain lion (you could see the teeth holes in the bone, it was awesome). The problem sit starts and makes a few set up moves before launching into a sequence of really hard moves on really small holds, to a cryptic top-out. Overall the problem is good, but the rock quality in some places is lacking. All of the critical holds are totally solid though and the movement is great. Check it out.

-Will

CCS Comp @ UNC Feb. 18th

Taken from the UNC snowFALL facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/events/260819603986088/

"Come compete in the first Collegiate Climbing Series Comp of the 2012 season for the Rocky Mountain Region! Heat 1: 10:00am-1:30pm Schools from Northern Colorado, Boulder, and the Denver Area Heat 2: 2:00pm-530pm Schools from Southern Colorado, the Western Slope, and Out of State Results and Raffle: 6:00pm. Prizes donated by Crimp Chimps, Blue Sun, Vertical Girl, Access Fund, and REI. Entry Fee: $20 for CCS members, $25 for non-members $5 per person goes to Access Fund To become a CCS member, register at usaclimbing.org To register, email uncclimbing@yahoo.com by February 10th with the following info: Name Sex Date of Birth Category (Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced) School Name CCS Member Numeber (if applicable) Email Address To pay your entry fee by card, call (970)351-2936, or you can bring cash or check on the day of the comp. SPACE IS LIMITED, SO REGISTER NOW!" We will be carpooling up to Greely Saturday morning. Gas will be provided y the WSC Climbing Club. You will have to register for the CCS on your own and pay for your entry fee. It is a top-rope comp on 30ft walls. Bring your harness and such. I know that some other people and I are going to try to stick around Sunday and Monday (Presidents Day) to boulder at Horsetooth Reservoir. If you want to stay and climb, awesome. If you have to get back to Gunny, we'll work that out too. there will be at least 2 cars going to Greely. Let me or Roy know if you have questions. -Will

Finger Strength/Power

The 3 main reasons for failure on a climb or problem are:

1- Lack of Technique

2- Lack of Strength

3- Lack of Endurance

Lets get more specific with "Failure of Strength". What isn't strong enough? It isn't your arms and it isn't your back (Unless you are Chancho). It is your fingers. Don't believe me? Think about that boulder problem or route that you haven't sent yet. If all of those holds were huge handle-bar jugs, would you have sent it already? It doesn't matter if you can do a one arm pull-up and crank out front levers, if you can't hang onto the holds, you can't do the move, and if you can' do the move, you can't do the route/problem. 

Two weeks ago it occurred to me that I have never trained specifically for finger strength/power. So i came up with a pretty brutal training regimen to finally whip myself into shape for my Spring Break trip to The Buttermilks. I have decided to post this workout for a few reasons:

#1. The more I type it up the easier it is for me to remember

#2. It is working so far and I wanted to share it

#3. If I hurt myself it will be an example of 'what not to do'

And now for the disclaimer: I have been training and climbing for 10years. I have tendons of steel (hopefully this training will upgrade me to unobtainium). I would not recommend this to anyone who has been climbing for less than 5 years and isn't sending V8 or higher consistently. I am working on a less stressful training plan for people who do not meet the above criteria and I will be sure to post it once it is done. As I have said before, INJURIES SUCK! Don't be stupid.

Finger Strength/Power
edited: 4/6/12

Week Overview

Monday: Hard

Tuesday: Rest/Yoga

Wednesday: Easy

Thursday: Hard

Friday: Rest/ Yoga

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Climb Outside

WEEKS 1,2 & 5

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x6, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Weighted (20lbs) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

WEEK 3

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand<Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 20lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Campus: 2-4-b5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEK 4

-Intensity modifications are bold and underlined

Monday/Thursday: Hard

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-45-60min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Weighted Hangs 30lbs: 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Double Clutch: up/down x5 <Medium Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

One Arm (no weight) Horizontal Pull-Ups; 2 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Moose Circuit

-Burpees

-Ball Kicks

-Russian Stands

WEEKS 1-5

Wednesday: Easy

Start

-5min on bike

-5min light stretching

-10min easy bouldering

-30-45min hard bouldering; 2-5 move problems; 90-100% max

CAMPUS BOARD

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Full Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Half Crimp, Small Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Finger ups x 10 <Large Rung>

- Hangs (no weight): 10sec on, 5sec off x 5 <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

- Campus: 2-3-4-5-6-7 x4, alternate leading hand <Open Crimp, Small Rung>

PULL-UP BAR

Horizontal Pull-Ups (no weight); 3 sets of 3 grips = 9 total sets

-Palms Out, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms Facing, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

-Palms In, Max reps (@8-10), Max Lock-Off (@10-25sec)

CORE

-Russian Stands

-Burpees